How to know if an oil is aging or anti-aging

woman using oil on skin      With a steady proliferation of new face oils on shelves these days due to all the natural brands who are against preservatives, one may wonder why we would want to sell yet another oil. We’d like to explain our reason for blending squalane, camellia, caviar and algae for our beauty oil and why it stands out from the crowd in such a big way.

While studying the competition, including over 400 natural skin care brands (some new, some old) we found that many of the newer Indie brands were not started by anyone who knew anything about skin care or cosmetic chemistry, but were rather people who were looking for “clean, natural ingredients but they couldn’t find any so they made their own.” Funny thing is, hundreds of people say the same thing, although a quick google search or just going to Sephora online would show them there are plenty of brands that sell clean and non-toxic skin care. When these people (who shall remain nameless) tried to make their own skin care, all they really came up with is a blend of oils, which let’s be honest, is not very difficult to do. There are face oil blends made up of several carrier oils along with essential oils. Sometimes the list of oils is very long, sometimes short. Some of these carrier oils should not be used on the face as they are aging on the skin. Most of them have several essential oils that are extremely volatile and over time break down the skin’s barrier. 

I looked for an oil for my face too, but I will never put essential oils on my face.

I will only use certain carrier oils on my face as most are well known to go rancid fast. Carrier oils are jojoba, almond, argan, olive, avocado, grapeseed, moringa, etc...

So the question was, what oils can I use to be sure they are not aging my skin and make sure they absorb completely, and is stable, and not only makes my skin feel silky, but change my skin from extremely dry, to normal and balanced over time?

The stability of an oil is a huge topic as there are sooooooo many different variables that can destabilize it. But to be very simplistic, the most stable oils are squalane, coconut oil and palm oil. Period.  This is because the oils are saturated (all full with no double bonds). The more saturated the oil, the more stable (and anti-aging) it is. This is what we want to put on our faces! So coconut oil and palm oil are both completely saturated with no double bonds, so no oxygen can ever get in to oxidize it (make it go rancid). 

Other oils have a mixture of both saturated and unsaturated parts. We can look at the ratio of saturated/non-saturated bonds to see how easily oxidized and oil might be. The lower the 2nd number, the more stable the oil. The higher the number, the less stable, more easily oxidized and more aging that oil will be:

Camellia (aka tsubaki) 1:4

Rice bran: 1:4

Olive:  1:5

Grape Seed 1:7

Sunflower 1:7

Safflower 1:10

Evening Primrose 1:11

Rosehip 1:14

Hemp Oil 1:21

 

The oxidative stability index should always be referenced when choosing an oil to use. 

Notice how everyone’s sweetheart, rosehip oil is way down on the index. This means rosehip oil is very unstable, easily oxidized and extremely aging if not used at its very freshest point. Hemp oil is even worse. Tsubaki, aka camellia oil on the other hand has a very stable ratio, meaning very few chances for oxygen to find its way in, and if properly stored, should rarely, if ever, oxidize. Therefore tsubaki is a little known anti-aging oil not used in most brands in the US though it’s very popular in Asian beauty brands. It is hard to find and expensive.

We’ve already lavished praise to the Skin Care Gods about squalane oil in a previous post.  To sum it up, due to the complete saturation of squalane, this oil will also never oxidize, ever.  It isn’t possible, just like coconut oil. Therefore squalane is also the perfect natural anti-aging oil.

Strong and moisturizing, Caviar oil is the most expensive oil out there. Caviar contains approximately 6% alpha tocopherol and studies have already proven it provides photo protective properties and prevents oxidative damage. Caviar oil is rich in triglycerides, phospholipids, Omega 3 and Omega 6 essential fatty acids. A deficiency in Omega 6 is known to contribute to dermatitis while Omega 3 fatty acids are believed to have anti-inflammatory properties. 

The last oil in our blend is algae oil. We’ve looked high and low for an algae oil to use on the face and there are only a few.  I’ve seen the ingredient lists on them and they still use essential oils along with the algae oil.  Why oh why must everyone ruin a good thing by adding essential oils to everything?

Algae oil also has a high stability index and fatty acid profile, making it the perfect ingredient to round out the blend. The oil is completely absorbing, and leaves your face silky and supple. There are no extras, no scents, no color, nothing that could possibly cause irritation. If you are looking for a light, silky, stable anti-aging oil, it’s our Caviar Beauty Oil, but it’s not sold on our website. You can only get it if you subscribe.

Please tell us if you like it.

xo, Jacci & Laura

Jacci Russ

Our founder Jacci, combines her background in Marine Biology and Organic Cosmetic Science for high performance, yet clean skincare using ocean-based ingredients. She has traveled the world in search of strange spa treatments and perfect pizza. Dreamer and Doer. Adventuress, animal activist, recovering cheese addict. Read more about Jacci.