Why squalane is the perfect anti-aging face oil
This week we are continuing our discussion of oils and will talk about the differences in squalane vs squalene. Squalane oil is created when squalene oil (note the "e") undergoes hydrogenation. Hydrogenation means to add hydrogen bonds which turns the squalene from an unsaturated oil into a saturated one. Squalane is a 100% percent saturated oil, which makes it even MORE stable than even coconut oil, which is around 80 to 90 percent saturated fat and also more stable than jojoba, which is about 60 to 80 percent saturated. For more info on stability of common skin care oils see this post.
Squalene is an unsaturated oil produced naturally by our bodies, and by animals, and also plants such as wheat germ, sugarcane, olives, palm trees, rice, bran and shark liver. It is no longer common to extract it from shark liver and has been banned for decades now. Squalene with an “e” is completely unstable and goes rancid fast. In order to be stable it needs to undergo processing to make it stable and turn it into squalane with an “a”. This form is a stable, fully saturated oil with an extremely long shelf life.
What does fully saturated mean for us? Far less chance of oxidation than any other less saturated oil. And less chance of oxidation means it is NOT creating free radicals within your skin, which would accelerate aging.
Squalane is also unique because it doesn’t form a greasy barrier on your skin. It is a dry oil and soaks in very rapidly, so that you could use it underneath makeup if you wish, where as most oils sit too heavily on top and interferes with absorption of your other products, or gives an unwanted pilling when wearing makeup.
You won’t have that with squalane.
It is for all these reasons we chose squalane as one of the superstars in our Oceanica Caviar Oil (not currently sold to the public, only through our email list.) The combination of squalane with caviar oil, algae oil, and tsubaki gives it the perfect balance of a safe, anti-aging oil with the anti-oxidants found in marine algae and tsubaki. As tsubaki, also known as camellia deserves its own article, but we’ll explain the benefits of that wonder oil in another post.